Day 14 ... who knew I could paddle!

October 2, 2024

After an interrupted night's sleep, with Ian's stomach still playing up, we rose early to watch sunrise from the porch of our tent. Looking across the Orange River and the green crops on the Namibian bank, on a still peaceful morning, we saw the start of a new day, and hoped once more for joyful adventuring and comfort for our loved ones.

A quick pack and overnight things dumped in the car, we went to breakfast where Steph cooked us up a lovely spread. Unfortunately we weren't at our best so we ate a little. My emotions were out of control so I had a sob, hugs from Steph and licks from her gorgous little scruffy dog Biscuit. We bid farewell to our delightful hosts, with even little Jaydan (who can't be more than 4) offering a handshake goodbye.

A bumpy 20-minute ride to The Growcery where we met Lawrence, our guide for a 3-hour Orange River rafting trip. We changed into bathers, had a PFD fitted (personal flotation device), and hopped on a Jeep back up the road we'd just travelled to our launching point, 10km upstream. 

As we climbed out of the jeep like the old people we are, Lawrence climbed up on to the roof and began untying the inflatable canoes. Having passed them down to his colleague he then jumped down and they began inflating them ... first with an electric pump and then a final puff with a hand pump. I suggested a bit of extra puff in our canoe to cope with our weight!

After a super quick safety briefing we were off to the river, and climbing on board we were away. The river is beautiful ... with the river banks being contrasting landscapes. On one side we had reeds and bulrushes and on the other were grapevines.

We paddled along ... enjoying the cool water from our paddles. Lawrence was a wonderful guide ... a bird watcher so keen to point out the many birds we saw. I paddled as best I could (and didn’t think I'd make the 10 km) but my trusty, supportive buddy kept cheering me on.

We negotiated 3 sets of rapids ... only Grade 1 but hey I was terrified anyway! We also stopped part way through to stretch our legs (they are pretty cramped in that canoe  ... especially when you have a bucket at your feet!) to go for a walk on the Namibian side of the river (without going through a border crossing). Lawrence showed us some geological features as we scrambled up the water’s edge and up into the hill beside the river.

 

 

Then back in the canoe for our final paddle which took us back to The Growcery. We emerged a little wet, with shaky legs and feeling exhausted...  but what an experience!

After a 30 minute drive back to Vioolsdrif we embarked on our next border crossing, this time with a vehicle. The South African side only took about 10 minutes - a lovely lady in immigration, no customs to declare, and a police check for the car. Short drive over the no-man's land across the (now familiar) Orange River and on to Namibia. Screening (where we buddied up with a friendly truckie), immigration (come prepared = fast lane), road tax, car and customs risk assessment. 30 minutes later we were at the Engen servo where we got a Namibian SIM and the ever-smiling pump crew filled the car and cleaned all of our bug-splattered and dusty windows (at no cost and with no expectation of a tip!). They also assisted with the installation of the SIM card and loading it with credit!

Quick note on currency. The ZAR (South African rand) and NAD (Namibian dollar) are pegged at the same rate, so in Namibia $1NAD = $1ZAR. Even better, you can pay for things with ZAR, so no need to change currency at the border, just keep using ZAR till you run out. And if there is change, it comes in NAD. Soooo easy.

Jacqui did the 2 and 1/4 hr drive to our accommodation near Fish River Canyon (FRC) as Ian was feeling tired. The first 20km was on a bitumen B road, then a left turn onto a dirt D road. In Namibia A and B are bitumen (A better standard than B), while C and D are dirt (C>D). We also passed an F road but didn't try that! Now, when we say dirt road don't think Aussie roads. These are solid compacted surfaces, some loose dirt, a few corrugations … occasionally. We found that safe driving speed on a C road is about 90km/h and D about 80km/h!! Sure you slow down for the cattle grids but good driving conditions. We reckon 75% of our driving in Namibia will be on C and D roads.

The afternoon drive was amazing for the scenery/landscape. Think vast, barren, flat, stony, sandy, treeless, sparse shrubs. In 70 minutes on D364 we saw 2 small birds and no other living creatures. 1 letterbox, 3 driveways. No other signs of life, human or otherwise. Shortly after turning onto the C road we encountered a car travelling toward us!! People!!!

But there were times when the scenery changed, often abruptly. Flat to hills. Sand to massive boulder piles. Flat horizon to distant ranges. Another 2 birds. It's hard to describe what it looks like, but unlike anything we have encountered anywhere before. But still so very beautiful in its own desolate way. We are loving Namibia.

We arrived at Gondwana Canyon Lodge (fancy stop tonight) about 4.15. You pull up to a green grassy garden with ponds and fountains - an oasis in the desert. The main building and many of the rooms are built into the rocky surrounds - immense red-orange boulder clusters. The green lawn is completely incongruous, but heaven for the hundreds of dassies scuttling down from the rocks.

Our room was exquisite, stone building, laced coverings over the bed, lovely fittings. So Jacqui headed off to take photos while Ian took the long trek (600m) to the pool - also built into the boulder clusters!

After a short relax on the stone and paved area near the bar our drinks orders were taken and we joined the 6pm Sundowner Walk up a nearby 'mountain'. With a few stops for nature talks we hit a steepish climb up steps built into the rocks to the top of the cluster (think Picnic at Hanging Rock) where we sat and watched sunset (while our host set up the bar - one sparkling and one still water for us). What a way to close off a day.

Except we still had dinner to enjoy, which we chose to take outside on a lovely mild evening. Ian had the cold cut Kudu for entrees and a Springbok fillet for mains. Jacqui went the bruschetta and a beef fillet, with a wide array of vegetables. For dessert we shared a Malva Pudding and a Lemon Delight slice.

A lovely night, and tomorrow we see Fish River Canyon!