Day 17 … exploring Ssosusvlei

October 5, 2024

Today we had a full excursion booked in so we had an early wake up alarm set for just after 6.00 am. We were up, dressed and out the door to meet our guide for the day who would take us to Dune 45, Deadvlei, Sossusvlei and Sesriem Canyon. 

When we arrived at reception our guide Werner from last night greeted us and told us we were with him and that we were the only two going. There was another group heading out to Sossusvlei but they were not doing the extension visit to the canyon … so we scored a private tour! 

Jumping back into our jeep “Hyena” we were out on the road and joining the queue to await the opening of the park gates. Werner had offered for us to have a coffee before we left and when we said no he smiled gleefully as this meant we would be at the front of the queue! We were in fact about the third … but it meant that when the gates opened at 6.45, we were already registered and good to hit the road.

Whilst waiting for the gates to open Werner suggested we jump out of the jeep to watch the sunrise. So we were once again able to start a new day watching the sun rise slowly in the east … over the mountains and spreading a glorious orange glow over the plains below.

And then it was time to head off. The ride to the dunes was on a paved road and with Werner at the wheel, and with his super sharp eyes, we were able to see oryx, ostrich and pied crows. Along the way Werner explained the dunes to us … Dune 45 is called that because it is 45 km from the entrance gate! But that’s not the case for all of the numbers.

Werner stopped on the road to allow us to take photos … especially of Dune One. We then travelled on to Dune 45 which is one of the more well known dunes because it was the first dune that they allowed people to walk on. Werner suggested we do some quick photos though as he wanted to get to Deadvlei before it got too hot so that we could walk in to the salt pan and enjoy the time there without cooking!

Today was going to be a hot day, so we happily agreed. Dune 45 is gorgeous … but then they all are! However, there is no way I was ever going to walk up it! We headed on to the entrance gate where Werner switched the Jeep to 4WD to cope with the heavy shifting sands that we would travel for the last 5 kms. For those who travel to the dunes in their own cars they are advised to catch the 4WD shuttles  … although some ning nongs think they know better and travel in … only to get bogged in the sand!

Arriving at Deadvlei Werner handed us both an icy water and we began the walk in. Whilst the walk is only a kilometre or so it is in the open sun, on soft sand dunes that rise and fall. We kept a steady pace and as we rose to the peak of the small dune next to Big Daddy we were greeted with the vista of the salt pan that is Deadvlei (literally Dead Lake).

The river that once flowed here was cut off by formation of a dune. The hardened lime in the sand has also resulted in the ancient acacia trees being starved of water and so the white lime holds the remains of the trees. There are some trees that have managed to survive but as you look across the “dead lake” the trunks of the dead trees cast an eerie scene.

We walked across the entire pan … easier because of the cement-like lime, stopping to take photos and to watch the instagrammers pull changes of clothes out of the bags they had lugged in! We could also watch the folk who had decided to be brave (or in my mind … foolish) and climb the spine of Big Daddy Dune.

We were grateful to be a private tour as we were able to spend the time we wanted in the lake … without any need to rush or to be held up by slower walkers. (I wouldn’t have wanted to be with the instagrammers!). When we were done we began walking back to the jeep, stopping so that Ian could walk along the spine of a smaller dune … he had wanted to do some of Big Daddy but with the wind swirling around the dunes and the temperature already in the low 30s he wisely opted out!

Back at the jeep Werner told us that we would drive a further 3 km in the shifting sands to Sossusvlei (which means Lake Lake - a weird confluence of 2 languages) where we would stop for breakfast. We passed an old oryx along the way … with Werner telling is that the old bull is sickly and nearing the end of his life 😢.

Werner found us a picnic spot out of the bulk of the wind and parking the jeep he then set about organising our breakfast spread. Cereal, homemade yoghurt, orange juice, freshly brewed coffee, fresh bread, a platter of cold meats, cheese, lettuce and tomatoes … all for us to enjoy. Werner joined us as we shared this meal … as we sat near the base of Big Mumma dune. 

After our breakfast we visited the toilets … drop toilets in the middle of the desert … and yet incredibly clean and odour free! Then back in the jeep and time to head back towards the park gate … passing a heavily bogged 4WD along the way. When we got back to Deadvlei car park Werner spoke to one of the shuttle drivers who headed off to tow the bogged car out with his winch.

And then out of the park and on the road again … passing all of the dunes for one last time on our way to Sesriem Canyon.

The canyon was an add on to the usual excursion … and I have no idea why you would come all the way here and not visit. The canyon is a scar in the earth formed from water and wind erosion along a river bed. We were able to stand at the top of the canyon (ground level) and peer down into the depths (Ian stood well back) and then were able to walk down to the canyon floor itself.

The canyon is stunning … massive rock walls rise up with crags and curves. Birds have burrowed into the walls forming nests in the coolness of the walls. Black Pie butterflies flitted around the flowering shrubs in search of nectar. It was cool on the canyon floor as we were sheltered from the midday sun. 

We scrambled over rocks and down crevices which of course meant that when we needed to leave the canyon we had to scramble back up. But it was worth every single step. We loved it. And then it was time to return to the jeep one last time … and head back to the lodge. 

Our excursion was perfect … an added bonus of being a private tour is that we actually finished earlier than normal … without being rushed because we did not have to wait for others. Werner said that he normally doesn’t finish Deadvlei until about 10.30/11.00 because sometimes he has some people who want to climb Big Daddy, while others just want to walk in. Because it was just us we had finished breakfast just after 10 … which meant we were well ahead of the heat.

And so back at the lodge … time for a cold icy drink and a swim for Ian. (No … I didn’t swim … I have a fear of cold water!). Then back to our room for a late lunch, a rest, another opportunity for a nap, some stitching and dong anything to stay cool. Ian headed out for another swim before we got organised to go on the Sundowner drive again at 5.30.

And so we headed back to reception where Werner was there waving happily at us with a massive grin on his face. We had a young family from Germany as our fellow guests this time … mum, dad and a young boy about 6 (he was the most well behaved child, curious, engaged and adventurous). Werner took a different route out so we had different things to see and a different sunset location. As with the drive the night before we saw animals … weaver birds, black backed jackals, blue wildebeest, oryx and some springbok. We also saw some dassie on the rocks and the rat dassie as well.

Our supper was wonderful … wine, soft drinks, water and beers. Another wonderful spread to share as we watched the sun slowly sink and the sky turn a delightful pink and then purple. It was worth going the second time … when you stand in the Namib Desert with the sky slowly darkening you become aware of how short life is and how we need to make every single moment count.

Back in the jeep, back to the lodge. Dinner again under the stars. Then time for bed.